Moving back to Gyeongbok Palace

A photograph of Geunjeongjeon in Gyeongbok Palace taken by Percival Lowell in early 1884 Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

In the final days of February 1885, Seoul was awash with activity. The main city streets (especially the street running between Gyeongbok and Changdeok palaces), notorious for being cluttered with squatters' shacks, unauthorized booths and extensions to the shops of merchants, were cleared out and all the debris was removed. The gutters ― infamous for the amount and type of nefarious waste they contained ― were also cleared. These were the preparations being made for March 3, when the king and the whole royal household would leave Changdeok Palace and move to the new palace (Gyeongbok) which they would henceforth occupy.

The handful of Americans residing in Seoul were also busy preparing for the move. Horace N. Allen and his wife, Fannie, were provided access to the newly reconstructed palace a week or so earlier so that they could take some pictures.

A photograph of King Gojong by Percival Lowell in early 1884 Robert Neff Collection

Allen's attempts to take photographs of the palace were thwarted "by a rough Chinese soldier who kept obstinately getting in the road till he spoiled my [picture]." Allen was a fairly large man and "thrashed" the soldier "soundly" and threatened to tell the Chinese minister to Korea of the soldier's mischievousness. Allen's threat was real and the soldier knew it. The American doctor helped treat a number of Chinese soldiers wounded during the failed coup in December and the Chinese minister was known (at least to Allen) for his cold and callous treatment of his soldiers. He refused to let Allen amputate the limb of one of the soldiers because the handicapped man would be useless to society ― the soldier soon died.

Because of the Chinese soldier, Allen's day (along with his pictures) was ruined, but he hoped to return the following day with George C. Foulk ― the acting American representative to Korea ― to try again.

It is a shame Allen did not describe the palace in his diary or include any pictures taken of it before it was re-occupied by the royal family. The only images and descriptions we have are from the previous year when it was still being repaired.

A photograph of Gyeonghoeru Pavilion taken by Percival Lowell in early 1884 Robert Neff Collection

In March 1884, one American naval officer wrote in his journal:

"The paved walks are admirably laid, and in the outer courts are crossed by canals walled up with granite, on the borders of which are couching tigers, in the same enduring stone, dipping their heads in the water as though to drink.

"Hundreds of buildings are still standing, probably the former residences of minor officials, servants, and soldiers; but the subdivision which contained the King's apartments, and those of the royal court nearest to his person, is but an enclosure of ruins. They were fine structures raised upon terraces with stone facings; but now nothing remains but granite walls blackened by fire, and the tall chimneys connected with the numerous kangs."

The naval officer was especially impressed with Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, which he declared was "built for the recreation of the Queen, and ladies of the court ― an army of maids of honor, at present numbering over two hundred."

A photograph of the interior of Gyeonghoeru Pavilion taken by Percival Lowell in early 1884 Robert Neff Collection

Apparently, the sight of this pavilion had an impact on his imagination and pen:

"Here the Queen and her dames d'honneur spent the long summer days floating upon the lake in gaily painted pleasure boats with silken coverings, amongst the pink and white blossoms of the lotus, perhaps to land on the little shady spots of earth which dot the surface of the water, to light a pipe, and dream the hours away; or in the pavilion, reclining on couches covered with embroidered silks, or leopard and tiger skins, listening to the music, and enjoying the dancing of the Geisha girls while sipping cha, and nibbling the sweets in which Corea is so prolific."

There were other Western visitors to the palace in 1884 ― each with an interesting opinion (and a liberal dash of fantasy) ― but those accounts will have to wait for another time.

The beauty of Gyeonghoeru Pavilion in the summer of 2006 Robert Neff Collection

Finally, on March 3, the royal family moved from Changdeok Palace to Gyeongbok Palace. In his diary, Allen described the day as having "an event equal in importance to the Coreans with the Inauguration of our President Grover Cleveland tomorrow took place."

Allen and his wife were provided an excellent view of the royal procession as it passed through the city due to "the voluntary kindness" of Min Yeong-ik ― Allen's patient and a relative of the queen. Min had secured a room in one of the few two-story buildings surrounding the big bell at Jongno and had it furnished with chairs, mats and "quite a spread of champagne and Corean sweetmeats."

From this lofty perch Allen and his wife, along with Foulk and the British consul and his staff, viewed the crowds of Korean spectators waiting for the royal procession. According to Allen's diary:

"Early this morning crowds of people began to throng the streets, women being borne in chair to some place where they could observe unseen and the poorer class going early to get a good place. Every window and door had a fine bamboo blind over it which allowed the women behind to see without being seen."

Gyeonghoeru Pavilion in the summer of 2006. In the past, it was much easier to take a picture of the pavilion and its pond sans crowds of excited tourists and visitors. Robert Neff Collection

The Westerners were somewhat surprised when they discovered that they were not the only guests. "Through some mistake the Japanese Charge d'Affaires Kondo got in there with his officers while his soldiers beat back the curious crowd in front." It would be interesting to know from where the Chinese minister and his staff observed the procession ― especially considering the Chinese role in the move.

Rather than trying to describe the royal procession, I think it is better to allow Allen to narrate it through his diary entry:

"First came a company bearing the King's banner, a large yellow flag with two dragons pictured on it and surrounded by warriors with matchlocks guns and ancient armor all covered with metal. They also had helmets of the same material. Then came soldiers followed by men in queer costumes surrounding the King's chair borne on the shoulders of many men. The King's chair red resembled a throne and was covered in back and side by fur. When it came opposite us it stopped and the King bowed to us several times."

Gyeonghoeru Pavilion is beautiful in all seasons, including winter 2012. Robert Neff Collection

Allen was impressed with the Korean monarch and described him as "good looking" and "real anxious to see as well as be seen." Following the king was 11-year-old Crown Prince Sunjong in a similar chair.

"He is really pretty, wore glasses and looked very contented. His chair also stopped where we were and he bowed several times, we returning it," wrote Allen.

His and other Western visitors' descriptions of the crown prince in the 1880s are very flattering and the complete opposite of their later descriptions in the 1890s and early 1900s where they describe him as weak, mentally slow and unfit.

Following a group of soldiers and their banners was "a very gaudy closed chair containing the Queen. We could not see her but she of course saw us and as her chair stopped where the others had we bowed and Mrs. Allen waved her kerchief. Other similar processions were followed in turn by the King's mother in a similar chair, then the wife of the little boy Prince (she is the sister of Min Yeong-ik)."

Allen noted that these last chairs and each was followed "by two very pretty 'Gaeshy' or dancing girls, bestride a horse and holding on to the saddle low with their little hands as [if] they [were] afraid of falling off."

A group of people in the streets of Seoul are captured in Percival Lowell's camera lens in early 1884. Robert Neff Collection

Finally, bringing up the rear of the procession was "the Chinese Army with their gay banners." Allen noted that there were other Chinese soldiers "scattered plentifully through the whole procession."

It is a shame that we have only Allen's description of this event. Foulk took pictures of the procession, but they have apparently been lost with the passage of time. Nor was I able to find any of his reports to the U.S. State Department describing the event. The British representative's reports also seem to be missing ― perhaps they exist but I just haven't been able to find them….yet (but I will).

One can imagine Queen Min was pleased with the move from the darkness surrounding Changdeok Palace to the bright new environment of Gyeongbok Palace. Unfortunately for her, the latter palace also became associated with death ― her death; a little over a decade later she was brutally murdered, a victim of Machiavellian politics and fate.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.