[Temple Adventures] The Beauty of Buddha's Birthday in Korea

A mechanical dragon at Samgwang Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

By Dale Quarrington

Buddha's Birthday celebrations throughout Korea are a wonder for the senses and are enjoyed by millions of people, both Buddhist and non-Buddhist. Korean Buddhist temples are filled with a kaleidoscope of colors and joyous celebrations. It almost feels like the entire country is awash in these splendid sights and sounds during the springtime months.

Buddha's Birthday celebrations are meant to commemorate the birth of the founder of Buddhism, Siddhartha Gautama, or Seokgamoni-bul in Korean. Buddhism is such a large historical, religious and cultural component to Korean society, it makes sense as to why Buddha's Birthday would be celebrated here in Korea. And while Buddha's Birthday had unofficially been celebrated for centuries, even during the repressive centuries of the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty, it was officially recognized as a national holiday in 1975.

In fact, certain aspects of Buddha's Birthday celebrations have been recognized internationally. The Yeondeunghoe, which is known as The Lotus Lantern Festival in English, was placed on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2020. Previously, it had been recognized by the Korean government in 2012 as a part of the country's Intangible Cultural Heritage.

A large paper zodiac animal stands beneath paper lanterns at Samgwang Temple. / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Traditionally, Buddha's Birthday is celebrated on the eighth day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar. And because Buddha's Birthday is celebrated according to the lunar calendar, the date that commemorates Buddha's Birthday varies from year to year. This year, Buddha's Birthday is celebrated on May 8. And despite the date varying from year to year, it in no way detracts from the overall splendor of these festivities.

There are a number of ways that Buddha's Birthday is celebrated in Korea, such as by hanging lanterns around temple grounds, enjoying a free meal, or observing a gwaebul (large Buddhist banner painting) or even the bathing of a baby Buddha statue. There certainly isn't a lack of things to see and do at Korean Buddhist temples during these festivities.

A large gwaebul at Tongdo Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

As you approach almost any Korean Buddhist temple from the roadside, you'll see a rainbow of paper lanterns guiding you in towards the temple grounds. These colorful lanterns are even more numerous around the temple shrine halls starting a month before Buddha's Birthday. Hundreds are hung to symbolically represent the transmission of the Buddha's wisdom and compassion.

Another way that these lanterns manifest themselves is during Yeondeunghoe. This ancient festival that dates back to the Silla Dynasty (57 BCE―935 CE) is most vibrantly celebrated in Seoul near Jogye Temple. This year's festivities will culminate in the Lotus Lantern Parade which starts at 7 p.m. on April 30.

Another way in which Buddha's Birthday is celebrated in Korea is by bathing a baby Buddha statue. This statue is typically situated out in front of the main hall, the Daeungjeon, appearing on an altar surrounded by flowers that are meant to represent the Garden of Lumbini, which was the Buddha's birthplace. This ritual is based on a legend that when the Buddha was born, nine dragons bathed his body in fragrant water.

This bathing ritual of the baby Buddha is meant to represent the cleansing of our body and mind. It's supposed to help eliminate thoughts of anger, greed and ignorance. During this ritual, people take a ladle and pour fragrant water over the statue three times. The first wash is meant to eliminate evil thoughts.

The second is meant to cultivate good deeds. And the third wash is meant to help save all living beings. Afterwards, the image of the Buddha is rinsed with purified water. And hopefully after partaking in this Buddhist ritual, a little good fortune and clarity will shine in your direction.

Bathing a baby Buddhat at Tongdo Temple / Courtesy of Lim Eunbong

Yet another way that Buddha's Birthday is celebrated, typically in the main temple courtyard, is by praying and in prostration towards a large, historic gwaebul. These gwaebul often only appear at larger, historic temples like Gap Temple in Gongju, South Chungcheong Province, or Tongdo Temple in South Gyeongsang Province.

These massive hanging paintings can be as large as 15 meters in height and 10 meters in width. The oldest of these gwaebul dates back to 1622, and it can be found at Jukrim Temple in Naju, South Jeolla Province. Normally these beautiful pieces of Buddhist art are only put out on display on the most important of days, like Buddha's Birthday, so it's a great time to see another facet of Korean Buddhism that you normally don't get to see.

And yet another way that Buddha's Birthday can be celebrated is by having a free meal either in the morning or at lunchtime at a temple. You can also enjoy a free cup of tea or coffee, as well. And normally, these meals are pretty good. But with COVID-19, perhaps some of the more traditional indoor dining at a temple's kitchen will be altered or curtailed.

Some of the 40,000 paper lanterns at Samgwang Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

You can never go wrong with visiting a Korean Buddhist temple on Buddha's Birthday, whether it's the smallest and newest of temples or the biggest and oldest, from Jogye Temple in Seoul to Beomeo Temple in Busan. Perhaps the most extravagant celebration, however, can be found at Samgwang Temple in Busan's Busanjin District.

In total, the urban temple hangs over 40,000 paper lanterns. In addition to these lanterns, visitors can view mechanical dragons with Bodhisattvas riding them, as well as 10-meter-tall paper zodiac animal statues taking up residence in the main temple courtyard. It's really something that needs to be experienced to be fully enjoyed.

There's just so much to see and do, and it's the time of the year when Korean Buddhist temples look their most beautiful.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published three books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the popular website, "Dale's Korean Temple Adventures."