Seoul Fashion Week set to dazzle in March

Members of NewJeans appear in a poster for 2023 F/W Seoul Fashion Week to be held at DDP in March. Courtesy of Seoul Metropolitan Government

SFW gives top Korean designers chance to present collections in Paris, Tokyo, New York

By Ko Dong-hwan

It's that time of the year when Korea's fashion designers rummage through their wardrobes to carefully choose their choicest couture. Those picked by their creators will be the outfits representing not just their labels, but also the country in front of fashionistas and industry dealers from over 20 countries.

Seoul Fashion Week is set to put Korean fashion to the catwalk from March 15 to 19, in what stands to be a chance to land a lucrative deal while winning the hearts of dedicated followers of fashion. The event's organizer, the Seoul Metropolitan Government, is making moves to add extra luster to the event at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP).

The biggest change to the show compared to its previous settings is the stage. It's no longer linear, but circular. In the 23 years since the city began hosting the show, not once was a circle stage at the center of onlookers' attention. The circle concept, according to the Beauty and Fashion Industry Division under the city government's Economic Policy Office, will offer a more lively experience to the audience. The feature also brings out a more daring and creative stage set-up using giant LED screens, allowing the participating brands to showcase their models in more unique ways.

As another new tool to better satisfy the participating designers in the 2023 F/W Seoul Fashion Week, a more even playing field has been prepared for them to minimize potential complaints about unfairness in presenting their apparel. Except for the opening, the order of designers hitting the stage has been decided through a draw. The city government said it had nothing to do with the sequence of the 30 participating designer brands.

A model walks during the 2022 F/W Seoul Fashion Week "BONBOM" at Seoul Museum of Craft Art in Jongno District, March 18, 2022. Korea Times file

The honor of opening the show went to Ulkin by Lee Seong-dong, who earned the highest point from judges among local designer brands during a pre-evaluation stage to choose which brands will join the event.

Seoul Fashion Week, for the first time, will give foreign and local buyers at the event a chance to vote for the brands they would like to see again in future fashion shows. The "Best Brand Top 5" will be given by the city government privileges including a free pass to appear in the next seasonal fashion show and a financial subsidy.

Alongside the show, a platform for a large-scale trade show between the participating designer brands and buyers from overseas is planned. Over 130 buyers from 27 countries are expected to show up at DDP Design Lab in Seoul representing local department stores and select shops in their respective countries. Some 70 Korean brands of seasoned and rookie designers are lined up for the trade show. Also expected to attend are distributors and investors.

To promote local designers and accelerate their sales overseas, the city government signed a deal with Paris Fashion Week to launch a pavilion dedicated to Seoul Fashion Week in Tranoi, an official trade exhibition for the Parisian fashion show. To be held on March 2 to 5 at Palais Brongniart in Paris, Tranoi will see six of Korea's local women's design brands in the special pavilion. The initiative by the Seoul Metropolitan Government will extend to Tokyo and New York this year, according to the authority.

Seoul Mayor Oh Se-hoon smiles during a photo call at the 2022 F/W Seoul Fashion Week at Seoul Museum of Craft Art, March 18, 2022. The event was held on a smaller-than-usual scale due to COVID-19. Korea Times file

For fashionistas on all levels

Aside from designers and buyers, Seoul Fashion Week also invites members of the public interested in fashion.

The celebrity promoting the annual show this year is NewJeans, the hottest K-pop girl group right now. The five-member act, all in their teens, was appointed as Seoul's honorary ambassador on Feb. 16. The group's Seoul Fashion Week appearance is their first official mission as the city's ambassador.

In promotional videos for the event, the artists from K-pop agency ADOR were styled by Ulkin, BLR Bluer and Ajobyajo. The brands, popular particularly among the country's MZ generation, are also participating in Seoul Fashion Week. The event's official Instagram (@SFW_official) on Saturday released the group's promotional video.

Visitors to the show will be able to check out various experience booths on "K-Fashion Street" in front of DDP. Walking up a runway in a virtual world and joining a live-streaming show hosted by fashion influencers are just some of the fun attractions they can expect. Those interested in joining the audience to see a specific brand's presentation can apply online from Feb. 23 to March 6 at Seoul Fashion Week's homepage. Those selected will be issued an invitation by the city government starting March 7.

"Through the long tunnel of COVID-19, small- to medium-sized local fashion companies saw their businesses slow down as their competitiveness weakened against larger companies. So we saw an apparent market polarization in the fashion industry," Kim Tae-gyun, the chief of the Economic Policy Office, said. "Seoul Fashion Week is for those small-but-competent fashion brands to find new business opportunities outside the country. They will pump up K-fashion by signing large deals with big buyers overseas, encourage more aspiring fashion designers and bring more members of the public to the fashion scene."