Mexican chefs discover common love for spices in Korea

From left, Chef Maritza Cortes and Chef Tamara Chavez who are both from Mexico, present dishes they made for their guests in Korea at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, Monday. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

Two Mexican chefs find parallels in the two countries' culinary cultures

By Lee Hae-rin

Mexican chefs, Marizta Cortes and Tamara Chavez, found out that their country and Korea have a lot in common when it comes to their culinary cultures.

The more they explored Korean food in local markets and restaurants, the more they realized that people in the two countries are surprisingly alike in their taste preferences as well as choices of food and ingredients, despite the geographic distance.

"Like in Korea, we eat every part of an animal," said Chavez, explaining the traditional Mexican dish called "Pancita," a boiled soup made of cow intestine that Mexicans seek to relieve hangovers, according to the two chefs. They were delighted to learn about a similar dish in Korea called "Naejang tang," which is a beef tripe and intestine soup consumed to treat hangovers.

Both Mexican chefs are in Korea for the first time, but for different purposes.

Chavez arrived in Korea from Singapore in late April to prepare a set of authentic Mexican dishes for some 80 local dignitaries, including the trade minister, lawmakers and figures in the cultural, educational and business sectors of Korea, at a gala dinner held on Tuesday at Four Seasons Hotel in Seoul. The Mexican dinner is part of the Mexican Embassy in Seoul's year-round events commemorating the 60th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations with Korea. She will return to Singapore next week.

Starting with a concert that took place at the Seoul Arts Center in February, over 30 celebratory events, including exhibitions, forums, and festivals are scheduled to raise awareness of the significance of the two countries' diplomatic ties, especially because the 60th year in Korean culture has a special meaning associated with the traditional sexagenary cycle and symbolizes an important stage in the human lifecycle.

Cortes, meanwhile, arrived in Korea earlier in April with a different mission at Four Seasons, and will leave the country in late May.

Cortes said she will present an exclusive and vibrant combination of the two cultures in her menu at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's Garden Terrace from May 5th to the end of September. At the hotel's Mexican showcase restaurant "Pica Pica," which in Spanish means appetite-stimulant, Cortes plans to present ceviche or silky soft tacos with tortillas crafted by hand, paired with Mexican-styled cocktails.

Green ceviche prepared in Alvarado style by Maritza Cortes, with flatfish, avocado, tomato, coriander, and chili. / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

She said she was surprised to learn that the way Koreans enjoy meat with fresh vegetables, called "ssam," is similar to tacos in Mexico.

"You (Koreans) make taco with fresh leaves, it's very similar (to the Mexican way of eating taco). You can put beef, vegetables and everything," added Cortes.

Chavez and Cortes enthusiastically went on to tell the two countries' similarities in the use of particular ingredients. Both Korea and Mexico, according to the two chefs, have strong inclinations for barbequed pork and do not hesitate to consume roasted worms.

"Also, (both Korean and Mexican) people eat late. And sweating (while eating) is the most beautiful sensation in the world," said Chavez, giving another example of parallels in the two countries' culinary cultures. Cortes added that both cultures see the time-consuming process of cooking as part of celebrating family ties and appreciate the virtue of sharing dishes as a group on the table.

The two chefs highlighted Korea and Mexico's shared love for spicy dishes. Home to almost 500 different types of chillis, the two chefs confessed that Mexicans grow accustomed to spicy food at a young age and even enjoy them with tropical fruits like mangos, watermelons and pineapples.

To get a taste of Mexican spices, Chavez and Cortes recommended a Mexican-style beer cocktail that combines hot sauce with a spice blend, citrus, and a salt rum, called Loco Michelada, crafted by the hotel's award-winning bartender Keith Motsi.

On two countries' common love for spicy food, they said that Korea and Mexico present the flavor in distinct manners.

"I think you (Koreans) put a little bit of sweetness" said Chavez, explaining the taste difference that come from Korea's fermentation method mixing with other ingredients to make pepper sauce and kimchi, while Mexicans tend to use fresh chili that keeps the original taste of the ingredients.

The two chefs explained that such spicy and hot flavors are the healthy elements of Mexican cuisine. Chillis, along with beans and corn, have been the key ingredients from the Aztec heritage that not only add excitement to the palate, but also help digestion if consumed freshly and in combination with other components of the dish.

Based on their gastronomic journeys in Seoul, the two chefs plan to present an exclusive set of flavors to celebrate the ties between the two countries and offer a unique Mexican gastronomic experience for Korean and international gourmet food lovers in Seoul.

Soft-shell crab taco prepared by Tamara Chavez, one of the menu items served during a gala dinner to celebrate the 60th anniversary of diplomatic ties between Korea and Mexico. / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

Chavez will present authentic Mexican dishes that Korean guests are fond of and could find easily enjoyable, such as soft-shell crabs, for the Mexican Embassy's gala dinner with the country's allies and business partners on Tuesday. Meanwhile, Cortes will feature some Korean twists with the use of ingredients like galbi, Korean beef tripe, and mealworms in tacos at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's Pica Pica this summer.

Cortes and Chavez also agreed that both countries still face a common challenge of breaking gender barriers in the culinary industry.

"I think not just in Korea or Mexico, but around the world, all kitchens for the restaurants are in charge by men. This is very confusing because in all the world, the women have control over the home kitchen," said Chavez. Cortes agreed and added that the salary gap between male and female chefs still exists in Mexico.

"As a female chef since I began my career, I have had great support from chefs who have been a guide for me," said Cortes. "My greatest pride is being able to help and teach female chefs. We must support each other in order to get rid of the prejudices and stereotypes."

From left, Tamara Chavez and Maritza Cortes pose at Four Seasons Hotel's bar Charles H., Seoul, Monday. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

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